Back to Bucharest and Then Home

Sunday morning, and we leave for home in a few more hours. Our time in Romania and Bulgaria has been enlightening, stimulating, beautiful, adventurous, and more fulfilling than imagined. Some may have wondered why we chose to visit these countries as they are not common destinies for American tourists. We can now attest to the value of visiting here. The land is varied and beautiful, the people are open and warm, the food and drink are delicious, the history is full and rich while being sad and hopeful. Traveling on our own by car and later public transport in Bucharest was safe and easy. The roads were not the best, but we managed, and as a human GPS, I helped guide David who drove expertly so that we never really got lost and kept discovering new and wonderous places. Come here for a remarkable experience!

Highlights of our time in Bucharest included walking the streets and parks, sitting at cafes, attending an outdoor music festival, dining, and mostly absorbing the feel of the place and the vibes of the local culture. Only twenty-two years ago, the Ceausescu regime was overthrown, and Romania as part of the European Union is now transforming before our eyes.

Yesterday we roamed Bucharest by bus and metro and visited the beautiful parks here including an outdoor museum of Romanian culture. We were fortunate to be there during a festival of dancing, singing and handicrafts. The sky was overcast with threats of rain, but the storm held off and we relished in the view of Bucharest residents enjoying the festival.

We returned to our hotel, and the thunderstorm arrived giving us a backdrop for a peaceful afternoon nap. After the rain, we walked the streets again, had dinner, and ended the evening with decadence.

Outdoor Music Festival in Bucharest

Celebrating Traditional Romanian Culture

Ruse, Bulgaria

We arrive at Ruse 90 minutes after leaving Bucharest and cross the Danube River on the longest steel bridge in Europe known as the friendship bridge. It symbolizes warm relations between the two countries.

We hail a taxi to our hotel clearly determining the fare. After a long four minute ride, the driver refuses to accept the 5 euro agreed fare and starts yelling in Bulgarian that the fare is 10 euro. I watch David’s hesitation before I see him throw the 5 euro bill on the front seat and triumphantly walk away. The first thing David does in the hotel is to determine the usual fare and discovers it to be 2 euros. Welcome to Bulgaria.

Our hotel sits on the shores of the Danube with a magnificent vista of the city and the barges on the river. There is a charming, peaceful garden restaurant and a roof top formal gourmet dining room with a 360 degree view.

After our usual Scrabble game in the garden restaurant, we enjoy wine, dinner, and tip for $15.00. Welcome to Bulgaria!


Ruse(pronounced roo seh)is a delightful, peaceful, beautiful town. This country, like Romania, is one of contrasts. Ringing a beautiful square with kiosks and walkways, outdoor cafes, and small boutiques, are dilapidated buildings, broken sidewalks, overgrown weeds and trees, and litter.

We stop for lunch and have a "lovers' spat" only to realize that we are actually eating at a restaurant called "The Happy Grill". Our souls heal, and we move on to enjoy the day.

We see an art gallery and are drawn in by haunting images of Tarot card figures hanging. The Ruse artist, Ivan Ivanov, is sitting in the corner puffing on his pipe. The place is mystical as the images stare at us.

Once again we bump into our history. We learn there is a synagogue here in Ruse and seek it out. With much frustration, we are unable to get directions or any comprehension of our request. Finally, David asks me for paper and pen and draws a Star of David that he shows to the next person. Eureka! The woman's face lights up in recognition and points us on our way. In 1941, 50,000 Jews inhabited Bulgaria. Even though Bulgaria joined the Nazi regime, it defied the command for deportation. Today,about 5,000 Jews live here as a mass immigration to Israel occurred at the end of WWII.

Today's dessert is attending a "Spectacular Dance Performance" in a magnificiently appointed public concert hall. For two hours, we are enthralled by twenty five talented, colorful, dancers. Welcome to Bulgaria!

View of the Danube River from our hotel room in Ruse

Ruse

Venue for the Spectacular Dance Performance

Strategy to find our history

Unwinding after a full day

Our Journey to Bulgaria

We check our luggage at the hotel in Bucharest and leave for two days in Bulgaria carrying only our backpacks. We will return to this hotel for our last two nights before flying home in a few more days.

Without assurance that the info we have is correct, we head to the place we were told a little minibus picks up passengers for the journey to the border also known here as “the vama”. Everyone we asked, seemed unsure of the details and every phone call we made was either a wrong number, service terminated, or unanswered. All we hoped we knew was that a minibus and driver would leave sometime in the mornng from a parking lot in front of the Hotel Horoscop.

We arrived a 7:58 a.m. with anxious and eyes and backpacks. We asked everyone in the parking lot incuding the meter maid, people getting out of the cars, others arriving. As I approached a man selling newspapers, he excitedly pointed behind me where I saw a number of people with baggage exciting a minibus. I yelled to David and we both ran to the minibus directly behind us. We ran over to ask and learned that YES this is the car. It just arrived from Bulgaria and will stay in the parking lot before leaving again for the return trip at 10:30 a.m. Eureka! David chatted with one of the Bulgarians, and we gathered details about where to stay when we arrive in Ruse.

With time for breakfast, we waited with confidence at last that we would be making our way to Ruse today. At 10 a.m. we walked over to the waiting car, paid our fee (10 euro each) for the one way way journey. The driver motioned me to sit next to him in the front seat and David directly behind me. Time passed slowly as we waited to see if other passengers woud arrive. Soon several women appeared ranging in age from about 25 – 70+ and engaged in conversation with the driver.

David, always anxious to engage in cave man talk, got out of the car and attempted to converse with them. I did not move from my coveted seat. Soon it was time to leave, and the driver motioned to the women where to sit. All complied except one. Contrary to the driver’s instructions, the oldest woman in her 70’s refused his directions and sat in David’s appointed seat by the window. David gently motioned for her to move to the middle, and she refused to budge. He motioned again. He ungently motioned a third time with similar results. The driver and all the others began arguing in their respective languages with increased volume. David pointed to his watch. Our departure is delayed and I found myself losing control with laughter.

I’ve now lost control trying to hold in laughter and think, “ David don’t you dare give up your seat to this b-tch.”
Finally, a truce was obtained. A woman in the back row agreed to sit in the middle next to David and the bitch took her seat in the back row by a window. All of the women changed seats and David got his original window seat back. By this time, I’m almost overcome while trying to control my convulsive laughter. We’re on our way to Bulgaria at last!

Stay tuned for the next posting about our stay in Ruse, Bulgaria.

On the lookout for the elusive transport to Bulgaria

David looks harder. Where is that minibus???

Sharon takes her seat and doesn't move!

On to Bucharest

The days are flying, and we have little time left. We are on the road again. David continues to keep up with his laundry, washing and drying his underwear as needed. Since we move quickly, it doesn't always dry, so the car becomes a clothes dryer. See photo.

In Sinaia, we plan to visit the old walled city and see the Peles Castle. It turns out that the castle is closed on Monday, and we decide to keep driving on to Bucharest. Even though the castle is supposed to be fabulous, we are more interested in the culture and people of today. We drive to the airport in Bucharest and return our car. Eight days of driving over 1400K in Romania has been fantastic, and David has been the expert driver in some challenging situations. We are tired and ready to retire in Bucharest for a couple nights before moving on for a couple days in Bulgaria.

At the airport, we get in a taxi and meet our driver, Valentino. He helps us find a hotel near the Historic Center of the city, and we collapse.
After a walk around and dinner and wine in an outside cafe we rest at last.

Today, we awaken and have breakfast at the location where we hope to catch the bus tomorrow to Ruse, Bulgaria. Information about traveling to Bulgaria is difficult to obtain. No one really seems to have the exact info. We are going to a location in the morning where we hope to find a bus to Bulgaria. Stay tuned.

After breakfast today, we continue our experience with the Jewish people's history in Romania and visit the Jewish museum here in Bucharest. Over 800,000 Jews lived in Romania before WWII and over 200,000 were in Bucharest. Today about 8,000 Jews live in Romania with less than 4,000 here in Bucharest. We are emotionally moved as we view the museum and its homage to the memory of those killed in the Holocaust.

We walk the city and return to rest before heading out again in the evening. We have dinner in a marvelous place, a old Beer Hall with delicious food and entertainment. See photos.

Now to sleep and awake in the morning for our adventure to Bulgaria. Wish us luck!

The car as clothes dryer

Discovery from 1346 under renovation

Circa 1346

Dinner in Ancient Beer Hall in Bucharest

Lacu Rosu to Sighisoara

Driving through the mountains of Romania brings spectacular beauty! Photos here give an idea, but there is no way to truly capture the experience in words or pictures. Winding roads through rich evergreen forests with new vistas at every turn bring us pleasure for several hours on our way to Lacu Rosu, a small mountain village high in the mountains. We wind higher and higher and arrive at Lacu Rosu, our destination recommended by George Lorca from Biztok.

Our hotel here is the site of a wedding and a christening, and we enjoy watching the festivities. Along the roadside, we find delicious sweet rolls baking freshly, and I discover that I might actually decide to dye my hair red as so many women here have done this. See photos.

We leave Lacu Rosu for Sighisoara, a walled city where Dracula was born. I find it a bit too “kitchy”, but we enjoy walking around, have an early dinner, and then find our bed for the night at Hotel Pointea off the beaten path down a small country road with views of pastures, sheep, and a horse outside our window.
After an aborted game of Scrabble – David has lost his groove temporarily most likely due to fatigue from driving and darting between curves, horse drawn carriages, overhanging tree limbs, and one wrong turn. We quit when he realizes he can’t possibly win this one.

A young Dutch woman in the Hotel approaches us, and we talk with her for a couple hours. Monika is from Holland but lives in Morocco where she is studying Arabic and engaged to a Moroccan. She is staying here to attend a weeklong meeting on Forum Theatre – an approach that uses theatrical activities to explore the experiences of oppressors and the oppressed. We have meaningful exchanges about Darwin, God, Islam, and love.

Sigasmoura

Sighet onward

In the morning, we went to the Sighet market and found the people selling their wares, produce and food. One place was filled with more than 15 women selling fresh cheese and yogurt. David bought a Romanian hat, a bit small for his huge head and is wearing it constantly. I bought a colorful, woven Romanian handbag and am carrying it always now.
Next stop – border crossing to the Ukraine. The border is defined by a river over which cars, bicycles, motorcycles, and foot traffic cross. We walked across and were immediately struck by trash and litter and a noticeably lower standard of living. Our footprints in the Ukraine provide a memory before moving on to the next stop on Romainia.
On the road to our next destination, a small village in the Maramures called Botiza. This region is known for its beautiful wooden churches dating back as far as 1326!! We drive for several hours following the map until we come to a fork in the road and seek directions. We pick up a man with one arm who speaks no English and with his other arm he points us in the right direction.
Moving along at a comfortable pace, we drive for a while and soon we see the police motioning us to pull over. Apparently, David was speeding as he had to pay a fine to allow us to proceed. The symbolization was not lost on us as we realized that David was going 7 km over the 60 km speed limit and the fine was a total of 67 lei. The number 67 added to the year 1944 (when the Nazis were terrorizing and murdering in this very region) is 2011. Here we are 67 years later driving at 67 km along the very roads where so much trauma and torture took place.
We drop off the one armed man at his destination and head directly to Botiza where we find George Lorca and his B & B where we stay for one night. George is a strange fellow. He graduated as an engineer, is tri-lingual, and states he has no friends living nearby. His wife is the village physician, his daughter is in medical school. We visit some of the wooden churches, relax to the sound of cow bells and roosters and have a relaxing stay before moving on to the mountains and the 15th century painted monasteries. The one we see in Voronet is a UNESCO World Heritage site. David was wearing shorts and had to have his legs covered to enter. Hopefully the photos that follow will give you a flavor of our journey for this section of the trip.
We now head southward and eventually to the Danube Delta by the Black Sea where we hope to see more wonders. Stay tuned.

My new handbag

A beautiful face in Sighet

David converses in the Sighet market

Along the road

David uses the scythe

Rest in Peace!

Connecting with one of the locals

Painted Monastery in Voronet - UNESCO World Heritage Site

Romania - Oradea, Satu Mare, & Sighetu Marmatiei

We left Cluj in our little white rental car and drove three hours northwest to the town on Oradea. We drove to the city center, and David turned the wrong way onto a small street where we discovered a lovely place, Hotel Maxim, our home for one night.
This city is on the border between Romania and Hungary. The Hungarian influence is strong and today about 20% of the population is Hungarian. Previously unknown to us, Oradea has a major Holocaust history and this soon became a major focus of our stop here. Before WWII, the population of Oradea was 90,000 and 30,000 of the residents were Jews. At one time there were 21 synagogues. Today, two remain – one Orthodox and one Neolog (a type of Reform Judaism from the Hungarians) and a major Romanian Jewish Community Center to keep the memory alive and to provide a place of learning and prayer for those who remain. The Jewish population contributed significantly to the culture of the city as most of the beautiful buildings were designed by Jewish architects.
So far, this part of our trip was the most moving and memorable as we learned that the decimation of the Jews from Oradea was second only to those from the Warsaw Ghetto. From 30,000 then to 700 Jews now, Oradea is a place of ghostlike memory for the Jews and for us too. The Neolog Synagogue sits along the river in great majesty and disrepair, its former glory covered with dust . The Orthodox Synagogue a few blocks away is currently under repair with the support of an American Jewish family, the Arnalls) and sits next to the Romanian Jewish Community Center where we spent time visiting and learning more about the Oradea Jews – past and present.
On to the next town in Transylvania, Satu Mare close to the border of Hungary. Here we stayed one night at Villa Bodi on the square of the town. This place, decorated in 18th century style, was once the home of a Jewish family before WW II. Again, we are in the midst of Holocaust history as we visit another synagogue and learn about the Jewish community of this town. Of 18,000 Jews, 80 remain and continue to keep Jewish memory alive in the community center and with daily worship.
We leave Satu Mare and head for the mountains. I say to David, “I’ve had enough now of synagogues and the Holocaust. “ My heart is sore. We are on the way to the region of Maramures and small Romanian villages in the mountains to relax. First stop - Sighetu Marmatiei, a town only 2 km from the Ukranian border. The road winds up into the mountains with many switchbacks. David hugs the road, and we climb through beautiful forests. Small villages appear with horse drawn carts on the road. This area is known for wood working, and we stop to see a wooden church under renovation and admire beautiful wooden gates in front of village homes. Along the way, we stop by the roadside to buy small strawberries from a local woman. See photo.
We are almost at Sighetu Marmatiei , and I take out the guide book for details. We learn that here was the home of Elie Wiesel and the place from which he was deported to the death camp. About 50,000 Jews or half of the town’s then population lived here before WWII. 38,000 perished. Today 200 Jews remain here. Even with the desire to give memory a rest, history and the Holocaust continue to surround us. We decide to stay at Casa Lurca, a hotel that is known for its wood-festooned rooms and excellent Romanian restaurant. Immediately we see that Casa Lurca is right next door to Wiesel’s house, a substantial home on the corner near the center of town. After checking in, we go to the car and while walking past Wiesel’s former home, raindrops begin to fall lightly. The tears of our hearts flow again as we step on the stones where so much pain and suffering occurred. Having visited the death camps, this is so different. Breathing the air and feeling the ground of the places where Jews lived full, productive, and rich lives absorbs us again. Their lives feel more present that past.

Preschool Children in the Oradea Synagogue

In the women's section of the Synagogue

Our faces say it all!

In memory

David converses with the Rabbi in Oradea

A conversation on another topic.

No petrol needed!

Fresh from the oven in a bakery along the road!

Ahhhh...a cool one from the tap!

Hoping for a good night's sleep on a full stomach!

My dinner..pork and cabbage...YUM!!